Neki primjerci tekstila u zbirci sinagoge Jevrejske općine u Dubrovniku

Abstract

Dragocjenu ostavštinu jevrejske opoćne u Dubrovniiku spasio je za posljednjega rata sadašnji predsjednik općine Emiliio Tolentino, a njegovom je zaslugom ujedno ta građa danas uređena kao muzejska zbirka sinagoge. Zahvaljujem E. Tolentinu što mi je omoguoio uvid u tu zbirku i stavio na raspolaganje tekstilne predmete koje na ovom mjestu obrađujem. Ranije sam već upozorila na značenje skromnih čipaka sačuvanih na torama ove općine. Na platnenim omotačima tora aplicirane su pruge čipkanih umetaka. Po tradiciji, tore su donesene iz španiije, otkud je krajem 15. stolj. u Dubrovnik došlo nekoliko sefardskih porodica i pridružilo se tu onim Jevrejiima koji su već od ranije stalno prebivali u Dubrovačkoj Republici. S ovim platnenim omotačima, kako se danas nalaze, tore su opremljene tek u toku 16. stolj., o čemu svjedoči upravo ovaj njihov čipkani ukras. Omotači su od neispiranog lanenog platna guste teksture, talijanske ili holandske proizvodnje. Takvim kvalitetnim platnom zapadna manufaktura je opskrbljiivaia evropsko tržište, pa i naše primonske gradove. Na svakom od tri omotača starinskom tintom zabelježeno je ime one porodice koja je po tradiciji votirala taj pokrivač. To su imena Termi, Russi i Maestro. Sva tri imena svjedoče o vezama durbrovačkih Jevreja s ograncima tih istih obitelji naseljenih u susjednoj Italiji. U Dubrovniku se pamti da su to bile ugledne građanske porodice još u prošlom stoljeću. Danas tu više nema njihovih potomaka.

The Torah Scrolls of the synagogue of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik originate, according to the tradition, from the end of the 15th century, i.e. the period when some Jewish families took their refuge in the Republic of Dubrovnik after being banished from Spain. The wrappers of the Thorah Scrolls consist of flaxy linen, rolled lengthwise, in its full original width of about an ell (ca. 60 cm). The three wrappers are ornamented with narrow lace strips sewn all along their width. This is an early-stage bobbin-lace. Judging by their texture and ornamentation the author comes to the conclusion that they are a product of native Jewish women from the time of the early appearance of the lace in the 16th century when such modest lace existed as anonymous accessories of the common people. On each of the three wrappers the name of the family by which, according to the tradition, the wrapper has been donated, is written with lead-pencil. These names are Termi, Maestro and Russi, and these bobbin-laces have certainly been home-made, by the women from these families. However, as there are nowadays no more specimens preserved of the famous lace of Dubrovnik, "point de Raguse", this modest home-made lace, found even now "in situ" at the place of its origin, proves the existence of the popular lace-work in Dubrovnik of the 16th century. The second object the author deals with is a silky coverlet, wadded and quilted with cotton-wool. The present-day object 'is composed of parts of two identical coverlets, which were at that time known in Europe as products of Spanish and Portuguese artisan workshops. They are made in the "pique-technique", used in the 17th century in the production of such coverlets as well as the parts of men’s and women’s costumes. This object has obviously been imported into Dubrovmk from Spain or Portugal during the first half of the 17th century. This is the only preserved specimen of such commonly used textile accessories in Yugoslavia, which gives evidence of the way of life of the rich middle-class society in western Europe of that time.